Bulk arrives 3-5 cm wider than sample. Sleeves 2 cm short. Factory says "within tolerance." Buyer says "does not fit." Both are partly right. The fix happens before bulk runs.
Why bulk drifts
Different yarn lots shrink differently. Bulk steaming differs from sample finishing. Two technicians measure the same garment and disagree by 1-2 cm. None of this is fraud — it is physics. The job is to define which drift is acceptable in writing, before bulk starts.
9 measurements to confirm
Lock all nine in your PO with explicit tolerances:
| Measurement | Tolerance |
|---|---|
| 1. Body length (HPS to hem) | ±1.5 cm |
| 2. Chest width (1" below armhole) | ±1.5 cm |
| 3. Bottom hem width | ±1.5 cm |
| 4. Shoulder width (seam to seam) | ±1.0 cm |
| 5. Sleeve length | ±1.0 cm |
| 6. Cuff opening | ±0.5 cm |
| 7. Armhole drop | ±1.0 cm |
| 8. Neck width | ±0.5 cm |
| 9. Front neck drop | ±0.5 cm |
Tighter tolerance costs more. Mid-tier brand: ±1.5 cm. Luxury: ±0.5 cm. Match it to your retail tier — and write it into the PO, not after bulk arrives.
3 ways to check without flying out
Photo + tape
Factory photographs the PP sample on a flat table with measuring tape laid against each measurement point.
Live video
15-minute call where the factory measures the PP sample live and calls out tape readings.
Ship the PP
Factory couriers the signed PP sample to your office. Measure it yourself, sign, ship back. Bulk is built to that exact reference.
Pre-bulk checklist
- 9 measurements with M-size value and grading rule.
- Tolerance written per measurement.
- Unit (cm or inches) consistent throughout.
- PP sample signed by both sides + measurement chart attached.
- Photos of PP sample (front, back, sleeves, neck, hem) saved.
- Same yarn lot for bulk, or buyer-approved swatch from new lot.
For PP sample workflow see how to approve a PP sample; for the broader spec, see our knitwear tech pack guide.
Want a pre-bulk measurement review?
Send us your tech pack or fit sample. We will return a complete measurement chart with tolerances, grading rule and PP sample protocol within 24 hours.